24 hours of exploring Cuba's verdant paradise - Soroa and Vinales

Though not as popular amongst travellers as the enchanting and vibrant capital city of Havana or the relaxing and lavish beach hub of Varadero, the lesser-known Pinar del Rio is a true gem in its own right. Cuba’s northernmost province, which was luckily not affected by recent hurricane Irma, is proudly home to some Cuba’s most breath-taking landscapes including the lush green tobacco fields where the best cigars in the world come from.

Even when Pinar del Rio is brimming with stunning flora and fauna in every corner, Soroa and Vinales are decidedly two of its most remarkable destinations, with astounding wildlife and vegetation just waiting to be discovered. Not too far from Havana, Soroa (just over 80 km away) and Viñales Valley (100 km further) will fascinate those with a spirit for adventure and a deep love of nature.

Whether you thrive on adrenaline-filled activities or prefer a more laid-back approach to nature appreciation, both towns are filled with options that allow you to discover the unique beauty of this verdant paradise. The quiet and charming Cuban countryside will most likely win over the hearts of those who care to unveil its secrets by venturing into its majestic greenery.

If you decide this is a journey you are eager to sign up for, here are some recommendations to blend Soroa and Vinales into an exciting and action-packed day trip.

Soroa – an oasis of tranquillity amidst lush greenery and waterways

Surrounded by mountains and rivers, Soroa is a natural landscape of great beauty and diversity. Located 8 kilometres north of Candelaria in the Sierra del Rosario, the easternmost and highest section of the Cordillera de Guaniguanico mountain range, this charming town is also lovingly called “Cuba’s Rainbow”. The name refers to Soroa’s colourful surroundings and the fact that the heavy rainfall in this area makes it prone to locals seeing these beautiful seven-hued arches across the sky very frequently.

The town itself gets its peculiar name from Jean-Pierre Soroa, a Frenchman who owned a 19th-century coffee plantation in these hills. One of his descendants, Ignacio Soroa, created the park as a personal retreat in the 1920s, and only since the Revolution has this luxuriant region been developed for tourism.

Declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, Soroa is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna. Vegetation is rich with more than 100 species of ornamental trees, 60 species of vines, 50 species of edible plants and approximately 20 species of palm trees and bamboo. Wildlife is also plentiful, overall bird families which comprise over 50 species, including the Tocororo, Cuba’s National Bird that is endemic to the island, as well as the the Cartacuba, the Nightingale, the Royal Wrasse and the Hummingbird.

Daylight delight at Soroa Orchid Garden and El Salto Waterfall

Your Cuban countryside journey begins in a place where you can truly appreciate the beauty of Soroa: its famed orchid garden. Walking through this well-preserved flower sanctuary will allow you to take in some of the island’s stunning greenery. Set across 7.5 acres, the Soroa Orchid Garden hosts an impressive array of ferns, trees, and, of course, orchids. These grounds house a whopping total of 700 different species of orchid, 6000 other ornamental plants a scholar’s library on orchids.

The impressive site was built in 1952 by Tomas Felipe Camacho, a Spaniard in love with these delicate flowers who dedicated his life to this pursuit. Camacho created this green sanctuary in memory of his daughter and wife Pilar, who both died during daughter Pilar’s birth. The garden, an addition to his already existing 1943 home, took nine years and $1.5 million to construct.

Feel free to wander through the gardens and greenhouses at leisure, if you prefer. Nonetheless, taking the guided tour will give you more insight into the characteristics of orchids and other beautiful plants, information about the upkeep of these stunning gardens and details about the site’s fascinating evolution through time.

Though pressed for time, this isn’t exactly an option, it is interesting to highlight that classes are offered to visitors who wish to learn how to cultivate and care for the fragile orchids. If you have a green thumb, you might want to reschedule a visit to Soroa for this amazing learning experience.

After this relaxed stroll through flower-filled grounds, it’s time to keep going for one of the trip’s highlights. Only steps away from the botanical garden, the breath-taking waterfall “El Salto del Arco Iris” awaits. Set on the crystal-clear Manantiales stream, the waterfall is one of Soroa’s most symbolic and beautiful sites.

Rising 22 metres above this small pristine river, the cascading waters are a true sight to see from afar and even more amazing up close. Take snaps of this majestic natural setting before jumping in and enjoying the landscape up close. Cool down from Cuba’s relentless heat as you dive into the stream; swim within the fresh waters, climb on rocks for a rest and get closer to be showered by the powerful blasts of “El Salto” waterfall.

Lunch break with panoramic views of Soroa at Castillo en las Nubes

After an energetic swim, the best way to say goodbye to Soroa (at least for the day) is by enjoying a tasty Cuban meal in an idyllic setting. Restore your strength and get ready for your journey to Vinales with a lunch stop at Castillo en las Nubes.

A picturesque and romantic-style hotel, inspired in a medieval castle, Castillo en las Nubes (Castle on the clouds) is high on a hill, overlooking the enchanting orchid garden and the stunning El Salto waterfall. The hotel boasts a restaurant and an upstairs outdoor bar, which provides a perfect viewpoint to admire Soroa’s nature before you leave, and even spot a Tocororo if you’re lucky.

Submerge into the countryside experience with some excellent Cuban fare, ranging from ropa vieja to delicious roasted pork accompanied by the traditional rice and black beans with fried plantain slices or, as locals call them, “tostones”. Complement your lunch with a thirst-quenching mojito or daiquiri as you look out from above.

Introducing the majestic mogote-filled Vinales Valley

After lunch in Soroa, hop in a vintage cab to Vinales - a ride that should take no longer than an hour. It’s easier if you have arranged with a local tourist guide, though local taxi drivers will have no trouble getting you to this popular town.

The second part of your journey will take you deeper within Pinar del Rio, into one of the country’s most amazing landscapes: the Vinales Valley. This amazing karstic depression is spread out over an area of 132 square kilometres and is located in the Sierra de los Organos Mountains, part of the impressive Guaniguanico range. Boasting lush green vegetation all around, Vinales Valley is home to large tobacco farms, where locals make by hand the world’s finest cigars.

Upon arrival, become fully aware of the dream-like location you have set foot in by climbing to Vinales’ most privileged viewpoint. Set atop Los Jazmines hotel, this lookout offers breath-taking vistas of this amazing valley.

Admire the area’s unique “mogotes” - conspicuous limestone cliffs that rise like islands from the bottom of the valley and can measure up to 300 metres. Watch out for the rich variety of birds including endemic species like Cuban trogon, Cuban tody, Cuban solitaire and Cuban grassquit. Finally, take in the fresh country air before leaning in closer and visiting its most interesting sites.

Exploring Cueva del Indio and Prehistoric Wall Painting

No visit to Vinales would be complete without venturing into at least one of its stunning caves and gazing at the unique rock formations within. It was inside these caves that the Guanajatabey Indians (some of Cuba’s first inhabitants) built their primitive homes hollowed out of the limestone mogotes.

Scientists have found relics of these nomadic people along with fossils of Pleistocene mammals embedded in the rock. Each cavern is also brimming with wildlife as deep inside the caves, albino fish swim and butterfly bats flit. Nevertheless, these caves are far from dreary and gloomy, but filled with light (thanks to modern lighting put in place).

Though the valley is filled with many beautiful caverns, some can be a little challenging to visit and not suitable for children or the elderly, nor for a short trip as the tours may take longer. This is why “Cueva del Indio” is the perfect choice for this day trip.

This cave system (known in English as the Indian’s Cave) is the best choice if you’re at all unsure about the idea of descending into a narrow space beneath the earth. Cueva del Indio boasts relatively ample interiors and has had lighting installed, as well as other safety considerations such as handrails and flattened flooring.

Because it is a popular attraction, try to get there earlier rather than later in order to avoid waiting in line. You can access the cave for 5 CUC. As you walk in, you will observe the beauty of this impressive limestone cave with very high ceilings. During the 200 metre stroll you are guided through the former indigenous dwelling, right up to the very last part, which crosses over an underlying river.

In these final 400 metres, you are transferred to a motor boat in order to sail through the pristine underground waterway. This final portion is truly the highlight of the Cueva del Indio visit, as you admire the beautiful rock formations from the high ceilings above and sail through the clear, cool waters. Make sure you snap some shots of this incredible underwater cave before the tour ends.

Once you have dismounted the boat an exited the cave, stretch out your legs for a short walk to one of Vinales’ most iconic mogotes: the “Mural de la Prehistoria”. Located within the valley of the two brothers (Dos Hermanos), the majestic elevation called Pita boasts a gigantic and colourful wall painting that depicts the evolution of life in Cuba.

Set on a perpendicular slope, the rock was washed and drains were also made in it to avoid erosion in the future due to the rain. The monument reaches an impressive height of 120 metres, stretches out to 160 metres in length and was painted by Leovigildo Gonzalez Morillo, former Director of Cartography at Cuba’s Science Academy.

This singular blend of art and nature is well worth a visit. Its name makes reference to the fact that the painting represents prehistoric life in the island and not to it being a work of prehistoric art. Standing out amongst the greenery with bright blue, red and yellow colours, this grand painting shows images of snails, dinosaurs and what appear to be early men.

After observing this unique panorama, allow yourself a moment to visit the nearby gift shop and bar, and take a sip on one of their famed pina coladas (which are said to be the most delicious pina coladas in Vinales), as you recover from the long strolls and hot weather.

Tobacco Farm in Vinales - a puff of the world’s best cigars

Next on your list to complete your Cuban countryside experience is getting closer to the place where the finest cigars in the planet are made.

There are several tobacco farms to choose from close to Vinales Valley. Many local guides wait around the prehistoric wall painting looking to offer travellers horse rides to one of these impressive plantations. However, if you wouldn’t like to leave planning this detail to the last minute, make sure you contact a local guide to take you through Vinales when planning your trip. Take your pick and continue your adventure on top of a handsome horse.

Your horse ride will bring you to one of the several charming tobacco farms sitting in the middle of the rolling countryside. Local hosts are used to foreigners visiting and are usually friendly, helpful and charming; your guides will play an important role too as they will be able to translate for farmers. You can choose how many hours you wish to stay (usually 5 CUC an hour, payable at the end); two hours should be enough to explore.

Wander through the lush tobacco fields as you gaze curiously at workers harvesting, whilst your hosts explain the cigar-making process. In a nutshell, to make these fine cigars, the vein of the leaf (where 98% of the nicotine resides) is removed and then, leaves are sprayed with a special mixture of ingredients like pineapple, lemon, honey, cinnamon, vanilla, and rum for the fermentation process.

After taking a tour of the plantations, head to the drying barns and sit among drying tobacco leaves as you watch hosts roll a fresh cigar right before your eyes. Three different types of leaves are used to roll the final cigar — filler (inside), binder (holding it together), and the wrapper (visually appealing outer layer).

Even if you don’t smoke, taking a puff of these cigars could be at least an interesting and unique experience. Those who do enjoy the sample will be able to purchase a few loose cigars. Before saying goodbye to the farm, make sure you snap some beautiful pictures of the sun setting over the tobacco fields.

As this action-packed day comes to an end, you will find you have only peeked into Cuba’s astoundingly beautiful and well-preserved nature. Plan one more trip to Soroa for a tranquil day of birdwatching or reschedule a visit to Vinales and check out other caves like Palenque de los Cimarrones and the impressive Santo Tomas Cave – the longest in Latin America. The abundant greenery and rural charm of Soroa and Vinales will most likely leave with you the desire to come back for a longer, more relaxed visit and the thirst to continue discovering other of the island’s countryside treasures.